239 West Broadway – Tribeca
** TWO Michelin Stars
****FOUR Stars from Adam Platt, NYTimes
There are certain things about which I am unqualified to spew my opinion. This is one such experience. The flavors were so sublime, so well thought out, such perfection that they defy words. Tonight there were no photographs, no dissecting of courses, no thoughts of anything but the pure enjoyment of this exquisite meal.
The decor was simple yet elegant. It is all about white. White tablecloths to the floor, white walls, white lighting. And a touch of gold leaf. On the walls and in the food. Wine is served in elegant crystal glasses, silver is swiftly changed with each course. A window to the kitchen is just high enough to see the Chef’s head, easily recognized, expediting every meal. The service was impeccable. They attended to every need and every dish was explained in detail. We were not rushed. For once we spent over 2 hours enjoying dinner.
Corton turns on its ear the concept of Michelin Star comfort food. Or even just traditional food. Eric Repert and Daniel Bouloud seem like dinosaurs comparatively. Even the young guys like Wiley Dufrene and Marc Forgione or Jean George’s ABC Kitchen, our favorite new restaurant last year were all doing the casual, comfort, homey, green thing. But then it is fair to say that Paul Liebrandt is bucking the trends. Fuck all that. This is elegance. A new level. Maybe the next trend. We could only be so lucky.
We will only know when we have earned our next 10,000 points on Open Table. We used a $100 gift certificate to save us from the steep cost of this experience. Still over $400. Just a warning. Check out the 6 course Seasonal and 8 course Tasting menus online prior to booking. And the wine list. This is no joke, be prepared to have the meal of your life, but only if you are into it. This is not for everyone.
Also, please watch this film…http://www.hbo.com/documentaries/a-matter-of-taste-serving-up-paul-liebrandt/index.html
Below is our menu. Please note there were two amuse bouche, a palate cleanser and at least two additional desserts. I had the Hen and Steve had the Wagyu Beef. The descriptions do not accurately describe what you see when it arrives…for instance the first course is the Foie. It is shaped like cherries and coated in beet borsht gelee. The foie cherries are placed next to real cherries. All are on a bed of gelee and accented with a crisp candied sheet of I don’t know what. On the side is a tiny piece of toast with black olive butter. Insane. And on it goes.
(Summer Truffle Supplement $18)